Paris - je t'aime ?????

Paris. I really don't know where to start or what to say about it. I have such mixed feelings about Paris. Let me begin with this - I always loved the thought of Paris. You know how it is - you like the way the French make movies - one of my favourite actors is a french (Juliet Binoche) - one of my favourite films is in French (Three Colours). There is something very dreamy about the French film-making style. I have always been fascinated by their attention to detail, how they can make the mundane romantic... little things important.

So you can guess. I had these tremendous expectations from Paris. I remember a friend telling me that Paris gets into your system, you begin to breathe it. Hmm.... ok... I am sure it does get into your system. But I am not so sure how one feels after that. Especially someone who dares (yes dares) to not know French. Our Thalys train arrived in the Gare du Nord and I felt, this feels like a big city, somewhat like Delhi. My train experience was mixed, the waitress on the train had been a little weird, even though we were travelling first class. I don't want to appear petty and get into details, but she was not especially warm and friendly. Being brown skinned in Europe always keeps you on the guard, you're almost looking out for bad experiences.

First day in Paris. Our landlord, a French, was really warm and nice, so that was a good start. Our first meal... pasta, nothing to write home about... my husband and my brother had a crush on the French waitress though! She sure was quite dreamy and pretty! First two-three days you spend figuring out Paris. Amsterdam was a different deal, my brother lives there, he knew everything, it seemed very simple to get around the city. We carry a pram around for my son - Amsterdam is a dream for a couple travelling with a child. Everything, the tram, the roads, the buses are superbly pram friendly. There are designated places on trams for a pram. I was beginning to feel that all of Europe was going to be that simple! Paris - the guys here probably just did'nt bother too much with kids of their own, so forgot to make it child friendly! The tube stations have these steep flights of stairs, so the pram needs to be picked everytime when you go up or down. And the metro stations are very deep, so its not just one flight of stairs that we are talking about! Sometimes there are three - four flights. Very painful. No one cares that you have a pram and a small child, so no one helps. No one gives up a seat for an old person or a pregnant woman. Dunno what all this means, equality of all? I am sure there is a French phrase for it, but really, I dont wana know!

Its very strange - this city of Paris. It is so beautiful. But the people, they are caricatures of themselves. They take the legendary French rudeness too seriously. They really dont like foreigners. They really don't speak languages (as the Italian wife of my landlord told me). The beauty is overpowering. The city is impeccable. The architecture, the symmetry, the boulevards, the cafes. They are all beautiful. The impressionist painters. The museums - they sure know how to take care of their art. The Seine. The roadside shops selling paintings. They are all so beautiful, but try buying one of the pretty paintings, and god forbid, if you haggle for it, you are told curtly - this is Paris, no discounts here! Do they even want to do business? !
I have to admit, somewhere around the third fourth day, you start giving in. You think maybe they were taught in school to be rude to foreigners, so its not really their fault. And there is the rare kindness - here kindness just means being polite! And the food. Well - the food melts you. Thats the global warming melting the glaciers! Well, whatever! But the French food... even if its slightly bland, is awesome. I had a grilled salmon yesterday with cream sauce. There were layers of taste there... layers and layers! If you know the taste of fresh clarified butter - ghee - and the smell of it - well then you are getting to the salmon taste I got! I find that smell nostalgic and homely and sweet. Today I had a tuna steak with ratatouille. Interesting. AJ had marinated clams - thats something to die for! They were really nice. The French, like their caviar and their froi gras are a rare breed and you need to have a taste for them. They are not easy to grasp and even tougher to like. I am not sure yet if I like them, but I like what they have done with their city. They have made one helluva place. Something you love and wonder why - its almost like the love of a pricey mistress. She troubles you and turns your life upside down, but you are hooked for life!!

I have many more things to write about. But its really late... I should sleep...! Two more days here... and lots left to do!